Friday, April 25, 2014

Teaching Your Cat to Walk on a Leash

Teaching your cat to walk on a harness and leash is a great way to let your cat enjoy the outdoors while ensuring his safety. Outdoor excursions can reduce obesity and boredom-related behavior problems that many underexercised indoor cats develop. Leash training also comes in handy during trips to the vet and other necessary travel. Before you get started, be sure your cat is up to date on his vaccinations.
 
How to Train Your Cat to Wear a Harness and Walk on a Leash
Most cats can be trained to walk on a harness and leash. Kittens are naturally more accepting of this new experience, but older cats can be trained with patience. Proceed in small steps, rewarding each bit of progress. Start harness training indoors so that your cat’s comfortable with it before you venture outside.
  • Purchase a harness designed for cats. The leash attachment should be located on the back of the harness, not at the neck. Try Premier’s Gentle Leader® Come with Me Kitty™ Harness & Bungee Leash, which is easy to use and adjust.
  • Leave the harness and leash near your cat’s food or favorite sleeping spot for several days. He’ll get used to the sight of it and associate it with feelings of contentment.
  • In addition (or instead of Step 2), hold the harness and let your cat sniff it. Offer him treats as he does this. Then lay the harness against your cat’s neck and offer him a treat. As he’s sniffing the treat, remove the harness and let him eat the treat.
  • Meanwhile—if your cat doesn’t much like being held and restrained—get your cat used to the handling you’ll have to do to put on his harness. (Just skip this step if your cat already accepts or enjoys being held.) With his favorite snack or toy close by, hold him firmly but gently for a few seconds. Softly praise him while you hold him, then show him a treat and release him to eat it. Repeat this exercise often for several days, always following your handling with treats, and gradually holding him a few seconds longer each time. Practice gently handling your cat’s legs and feet, too, and rewarding him for accepting that.
  • Next, drape the harness over your cat’s shoulders and down his chest between his front legs. Introduce the new feel of the straps while your cat is sniffing or eating his treat, and remove the harness immediately. Work until you can snap the harness on him over his neck and shoulder area and between his front legs, continuing to distract him with treats.
  • Put the harness on your cat, but don’t attach the leash yet. Immediately distract him with tasty treats. Adjust the fit of the harness. You should be able to slip two fingers (but not three or four) between the harness and your cat’s body. Leave the harness on for just a couple minutes, removing it before your cat’s interest in his rewards starts to decrease. Repeat this training daily for several days. If your cat stays relaxed, gradually increase the time the harness is on. If he ever gets upset, distract him with treats and then remove the harness. Try again later with a better reward and take the harness off sooner, before your cat has a chance to get upset.
  • Now it’s time to attach the leash. Place your cat in a room with few things that might snag a leash. Put the harness on your cat and attach the leash, letting it drag on the ground behind him. Distract him with treats or play. Repeat this step for several days. Always supervise so that the leash doesn’t get caught on something and scare him.
  • When your cat seems relaxed and comfortable while dragging the leash, hold it gently (not pulling against him) while he walks around the house. Let him go wherever he wants to, and keep the leash loose as you follow him around. As he roams, praise him often and periodically reward him with tasty treats. Practice this step for a few days.
  • You might be satisfied to conclude harness training here and proceed outdoors. But you can also practice directing where your cat walks on leash indoors a bit (rather than just following him) before you go outside, since you’ll need to direct him once you’re outside. Here’s how you can encourage your cat to walk along with you:
    • Using a sweet, soft voice, encourage your cat to follow you.
    • Drop him a treat, and while he eats it, walk away to the end of the leash. When he catches up to you, praise and reward him with another treat. Repeat this over and over.
    • Apply gentle, persistent pressure on the leash if your cat tries to go in another direction. Be sure not to jerk or pop the leash. Just wait patiently. When your cat finally takes a couple of steps toward you, he’ll be rewarded by relief from the tension on the leash, and you can again reward him with a treat.
  • Now it’s time to take the show on the road. Most cats who haven’t been outdoors are nervous and easily startled outside. So start in a quiet, sheltered spot and just sit with your cat on the leash. He’ll start exploring as he adjusts. Just as you did indoors, start by following behind your cat as he checks things out, and travel further with your new walking buddy when he’s relaxed and ready to move on.
 
  • Additional Tips
    • Your cat won’t constantly pester you to go out if you take him only at a certain time each day. Try setting a regular walking schedule.
    • Always put the harness on away from the door and carry your cat outside. Never let him walk out on his own, or he might try to dash out between walks without his harness on.
    • Never harness your cat when he’s crying or pestering you. Ignore him until he’s quiet. Then you can reward his good behavior with a walk.
    • Do not tie your cat’s leash to something outside and leave him, even if you plan to be gone for only a minute or two. Your cat might get tangled in the leash and hurt himself, and he won’t be able to escape if a dog or other animal approaches. In fact, it’s best to avoid leaving your cat outdoors unattended altogether, whether he’s on a leash or not.
Source: www.aspca.org

Monday, April 21, 2014

Selecting the Right Environmental Enrichment for Your Cat

The secret to a happy cat home depends on your cat’s personality and the types environmental enrichment opportunities you provide.

For indoor cats to be happy, they need some simple things to make them feel active, secure and safe.  For example, you need some lovely little places high up for cats to climb and hide, some special beds, some scratching posts and more. 

Cats, especially indoor cats, need stimulation and recreation to maintain their good mental health. This is often referred to as "environmental enrichment or environmental enhancements".

So, what does that mean exactly? It means that for some cats to be "happy" and to minimize behavioral problems of indoor cats or multi-cat environments, it is important that your cat have plenty of toys, places to hide, perch, sleep, places or things to "scratch", things to "watch", and opportunities to play. It is also important that cats have a place that they perceive as safe to eat, drink and eliminate.

This can be accomplished by providing an environment with cat trees, perches, bags, beds, toys, and trusted spots to sleep, eat and use the litter box.

Refuge
Small refuges where cats feel save can be as simple as paper bags or cardboard boxes. Places to hide may be a favorite box under the bed, a pet taxi or carrier behind a chair, or on a towel on top of a dresser. Cats tend to prefer to be high were they can constantly assess their environment. They prefer to sleep and rest in areas where they feel safe and are comfortable.

In households with other cats or dogs, it is important that they cats be able to get away from the dog if they want to. This is especially true for litter box and food placement. They should be able to eat and eliminate without being bothered by dogs or other cats.

Cat Furniture or Perches
Some authorities estimate that cats need about 500 square feet per cat to minimize behavioral problems. One way to help make a cat's environment richer, bigger, and safer is to give them some extra vertical places. Perches are simply a high area with a view or vantage point.

Cats love to climb and high places make them feel secure. From a high spot, cats can watch their environment and identify both prey and predator. Although your cat may be indoors only and out of reach of prey or predator, cats don't lose this instinct. Cats feel most vulnerable when they sleep and generally prefer higher areas, such as a cat tree or perch, for their naps. Multiple perches or cat trees are ideal as some cats prefer to watch their environment from different vantage points. This is especially important in multi-cat households as more than one cat can "perch" at a time. Windowsill perches are also good and are discussed under "Visual Stimulation".

Scratching Stimulation
It is important to have places in your home where your cat is welcome to scratch. This is especially important in cats with claws, however, just because a cat does not have their claws, does not mean they don't have the instinct to "scratch". Scratching is a natural instinct for cats to sharpen their claws, stretch, shed old nails, and leave their scent.

Consider what substrates or locations your cat likes to scratch? Does he or she stretch out when they scratch? Does he scratch on furniture legs, the backs of fabric chairs or...along the carpeted floor. This information can help you determine which substrate your might prefer such as cardboard, fabric, carpet or wood and the surface type such as vertical areas or horizontal surfaces. If your cat stretches out when they scratch, make sure you choose a scratching surface that is tall enough to accommodate your cat.

Most scratching posts are made out of tree material, cardboard, rope, or fabric which can all work well. If you don't know what your cat prefers, you may want to try a couple types to ensure your cat has a favorite. A good combination is a cardboard horizontal scratcher and a vertical carpeted post. Multi-cat households should have several scratching spots. Make sure the post is secure and can not be moved or knocked over either hurting or scaring your cat. Because scent marking is a part of scratching, cats often like to scratch in common places in the house where you or other cats spend time. This may include doorways, bedrooms, kitchens or living rooms and in areas where they spend their times, such as near favorite sleeping and eating areas.

Visual Stimulation
Cats are often very simulated by their vision. They love toys that swing and movement. A window bed is often a favorite spot for cats to nap or watch the outside environment. This is especially good if they have a few of a tree or some natural elements, even birds. There are commercially available window beds or you can move a chair, secure table or bench next to a window for your cat. If a window is not an option, some cats like nature shows or videos.

Play
First, let's consider play. Consider your cat's toy preference? Does your cat prefer toys that mimic birds, mice or catching bugs? There are many types of toys made for cats and each cat has their own preferences as to what stimulates them to interact. Favored toys mimic predatory acts that cats would perform if they were to hunt for their food. Although your cat may not need to "hunt", they still enjoy the actions and movements involved with the process and create a form of play from this act. 

Source: www.petplace.com

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Easter Lilies - Not Just a Pretty Flower?

The Easter lily is as common in many spring homes as chocolate bunnies and jelly beans. But did you know this popular flower is toxic to your cat? In fact, other members of the lily family have been found to be toxic, including the day lily and the tiger lily (although there's no need to worry about the non-toxic calla lily, peace lily, or glory lily). Eating just one leaf of a toxic lily can result in severe poisoning, and within a short time your cat will exhibit signs of toxicity.

Signs and Symptoms

The primary toxic effects are on the kidneys. Within minutes to hours of ingesting part of the lily plant, your cat might stop eating and begin vomiting. As the toxin begins to affect the kidneys, the cat will become lethargic. Finally, he will experience kidney failure and death will generally occur within five days.

Once you suspect your cat has eaten part of a lily plant, it is important that you contact your veterinarian immediately. If treatment is started early, chances are your cat will recover, but once the kidneys have been severely affected, your cat may not survive.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Diagnosing lily toxicity is generally based on a history of exposure to the plant and signs of vomiting and dehydration. Your veterinarian will probably do some preliminary blood tests to determine if any kidney damage has occurred, and repeat them once treatment has been started to determine if treatment is effective.

The treatment generally consists of hospitalization and intravenous fluids. Your veterinarian may also give your cat medication to control nausea and vomiting. Home care will not result in full recovery.

Prevention

Obviously, the best prevention of lily toxicity is to keep lily plants away from your cat. If you bring lilies into the house, you may have to keep them in a separate room where your nibbling cat cannot enter. Better still, consider choosing other springtime flowers instead, like impatiens or gardenias, and leave the lilies outside.

Source: www.petplace.com

Spring and Summer Plant Toxicity in Cats


Holidays are often times that gifts are given. For some, flowers do not last long enough and a plant is a better, and longer lasting, gift. But if your family includes pets, you may want to learn which plants are safe and which to avoid.

Springtime holidays are often associated with bulb plants and ingestion of the bulbs causes the most severe illness. Summer holidays are associated with plants. Here are some of the more common spring and summer holiday plants and information on their toxicity.


  • Easter lily (Lilium or Hemorocallis sp.). This plant has serious toxic effects in cats. Kidney failure, vomiting and depression can occur after ingesting a small amount. So far, only cats seem to be affected.
  • Tulip (Tulip spp.). Ingestion can result in intense vomiting, depression, diarrhea, drooling and lack of appetite.
  • Hyacinth (Hyacinthus oreintalis). Ingestion can result in intense vomiting, diarrhea, depression and tremors.
  • Daffodil (Narcissus spp). Ingestion can result in severe gastrointestinal illness, convulsions, seizures, low blood pressure and tremors.
  • Peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp). Ingestion can result in ulcers in the mouth, vomiting and diarrhea.
  • Easter cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesi). Ingestion can result in vomiting, diarrhea and depression. Cats can also develop staggering.
  • Easter daisy (Townsendia sericea). This plant is considered non toxic.
  • Easter orchid (Cattleya mossiae). This plant is considered non toxic.
  • Easter lily cactus (Echinopsis multiplex). This plant is considered non toxic.
  • Resurrection lily (Kaempferia pulchra). This plant is considered non toxic.
  • Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia splendens prostrata). Ingestion results in vomiting and diarrhea.


  • Source: www.petplace.com

    Tuesday, April 1, 2014

    Where Should Your Cat Sleep?

    Okay, 'fess up.  Where does your cat sleep?  Nestled in the crook of your knees on your antique quilt?  On the larger part of your pillow where your head isn't?  On an easy chair close to the bed?  Or does she position herself flush against the closed door to your bedroom?  Or in her own bed in another part of the house?

    Coach

    A recent online survey revealed the following facts about cats in the household:
    • About 96 percent of cat owners allow their cats to sleep in the bedroom.
    • Almost 50 percent of those cats are allowed to sleep in the bed.
    • And 38 percent of those sleep on the pillow with the owner.

    It should be noted, too, that younger cats prefer the pillow, while older cats prefer to sleep at the foot of the bed.

    Lambert
    Although the amount of time spent sleeping varies from cat to cat, and depends on age and personality, felines spend an average of 13 to 16 hours each day curled up in slumber.  And when it comes to sleep, your cat likes warm and cozy.  She looks for a place that feels comfortable and safe and has the right temperature.  When the weather is warm, she seeks high shaded sleeping nooks, where she can stretch out.  During the cool winter months she'll find a place in the warm sunshine or near a heat source, and there she'll curl up with face between paws to reduce body heat loss.

    Lorelei
    If your cat does sleep in bed with you, consider the following:
    • Cats rarely sleep through the night and they often wake up too, too early for most people, usually 4 or 5 am.  At this point they want to be fed and they may also want to play.
    • Cats are fascinated with anything that moves, and if the nearest thing is your hand or foot, you may have a painful awakening.
    • Although cats are known to be fastidious about cleanliness, they still step in and out of the litter box.
    • You might have allergies and may need to have time away from your kitty, especially when sleeping.

    Phantom
    Most behavioral problems can be handled, however, and training is always worth the effort.  Your cat can learn to stay quiet when she awakens or she can leave the room by herself.  A firm "no" a few times may stop the batting game with your foot – a few hundred times may get her to stop all together.  And you can help keep her paws clean if that is an issue or provide a towel or blanket on top of the antique quilt. 

    Rooney
    Source: www.petplace.com